Lunch Tuesday: Mr. Jerk

In a world of sneeze guards and plastic serrated chef’s knives, it’s refreshing to see a giant cleaver lying casually on the counter.

After all, how could the staff at Mr. Jerk (209 Wellesley St. E.) hack through the dozens of chickens served during a regular business day?

The jerk chickens are on display on a rotisserie in the window, and the fried ones are waiting inside.

You’ll be able to get a good look during the inevitable wait. At peak hours, the line can stretch out the door. Delivery is recommended.

Inside, it’s a squeeze past the steam trays to the cash. The small eat-in area consists of five tall stools facing the wall. On a recent visit, they were occupied by two school-age boys, their bikes propped up against the ice-cream case.

The jerk chicken dinner ($5.99) comes with rice and beans, coleslaw and gravy. Get the gravy on the side – it comes in a Styrofoam cup, thick and with a spice that lingers.

Officially, the ingredients in the jerk rub are a secret. Unofficially, it’s scotch bonnet peppers, brown sugar, and a hint of cumin. Yes, there’s a kick, but it’s not spicy – heat lovers will need extra sauce, which you can buy by the jar on site.

And if you’ve never had jerk pork ($7.99), this is the place to try it out. It won’t be the last time: moist, tender meat with a blackened crust, dosed with the same spice as the chicken.

The rice and peas are standard, with more rice than peas on a recent visit; and the coleslaw was verging towards dry. It’s different during the lunch rush, with specials served from 11am to 3pm – (jerk chicken and BBQ chicken are always on special, with changing options Monday through Friday.) During peak hours, turnover is faster and the coleslaw, especially, benefits.

There’s a warning behind the register that Mr. Jerk does not accept $50 or $100 bills – in fact, they don’t take debit or credit either – but you won’t need more than $10 for a filling, satisfying lunch.