Lunch Tuesday: Pancer’s and Katz’s

The carnival-like atmosphere of Katz’s is a far cry from the strip mall façade of Pancer’s. Sure, they’re both delis. But the similarities – at least as far as décor goes – end there.

Katz’s Deli and Corned Beef Emporium (3300 Dufferin St.) looks like an old Raptors jersey: bright purple with splashes of red and teal.

It’s a far drive – “sure, if you live downtown,” my dining companion snorted – and the enormous parking lot comes complete with signs directing you how, exactly, to get out.  

Inside, it’s even more of a maze. The first counter is take-out only. But that’s not what we’re here for. Grabbing two trays, we slide around to the back, fully prepared for a cafeteria-style experience.

First up, dozens of cold dishes: pickles, coleslaw, picked vegetables and potato salad are all plated and ready to go. We scoop up a plate of red peppers and a dish of potato salad.

Next on the assembly line are at least four different sandwich stations. We were there before noon on a Tuesday and didn’t wait at all, but the lineups can be brutal during peak times.

One corned beef and one pastrami (medium) later and we’re at the fry stand.

They look pitiful, too thin and uniform to be hand-cut, but there’s gravy and we’re starving so that’s what we get.

Then it’s two fountain drinks and a chat with the extremely affable cashier and we’re seated at the table.

The fries aren’t great but the peppers are, and the corned beef needed only a jolt of mustard – there’s a bottle at every brightly-coloured table.

Moe Pancer’s Delicatessen (3856 Bathurst St.) was decidedly less flashy. It’s a narrow room and the pink walls are nearly obscured with clippings, some dating back to their former digs further north on Bathurst.

It’s table service, with incredibly friendly but harried staff. On a sunny Sunday afternoon my boyfriend and I are the youngest people here who don’t need high chairs.

He ordered the baby beef with coleslaw and potato salad, while I stuck with the pastrami and fries.

The pastrami was spicy and tender, so good I took the top “lid” off of my sandwich and ate most of the meat on its own with a fork.

The baby beef is mild, served cold and yes, piled high. It’s verging on bland but a shot of the ubiquitous French’s yellow saves that. Belatedly, we notice a case behind the deli counter with at least three other kinds of mustard inside. Too bad we first saw it when we got up to pay the bill.

After four lunches that were mainly meat, I’m looking for a lighter option – any hidden gems out there?

Send them to me: erin.criger@citynews.rogers.com